Tying in main stock tips

chrisgrainge · Post by **chrisgrainge** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 11:38 am

Thanks all...

Unfortunately the bag is sewn up! Tony Hebdon (one of the 'local' makers) bolts his stock in from the inside of the bag, then sews it up - looks and lasts very well but difficult to change bags!

I have a small tree in the garden and it looks like its not just useful for making apples! Need to try and find some of this waxed artificial stuff, but shouldn't be too hard....

Thanks for the advice.

Chris

Joseph E. Smith · Post by **Joseph E. Smith** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:52 pm

Try these places if you cannot find it in your country.

http://www.turtlefeathers.com/text/products/sinew.html

http://www.primitiveoriginals.com/arsin.html

http://www.montanaleather.com/thread.htm

o'corragain · Post by **o'corragain** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 8:14 pm

JES wrote:

Try these places if you cannot find it in your country.

http://www.turtlefeathers.com/text/products/sinew.html

http://www.primitiveoriginals.com/arsin.html

http://www.montanaleather.com/thread.htm

Could you tell me what weight is suitable for tying in stocks? Would you go with the 70 pound? Also what weight would be suitable for tieing reeds?

I tied my first stocks in this week. I used unwaxed hemp, which broke a couple of times, but all in all worked fine, no leaks.

David

Joseph E. Smith · Post by **Joseph E. Smith** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:40 am

70# is perfect for stocks and works for reeds, but I would go with a lighter weight for reed making.

Here's an image from Davy Stephenson's site that I feel really illustrates a tied in stock very well.

Dionys · Post by **Dionys** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:31 pm

Let me also add the suggestion if you're finding it hard to get the synthetic sinew that you try waxed Nyltex thread. Tim Britton uses it for reed making and it works great for tying in bags as well. It's pretty much the same as the artifical sinew, but usualy easier to find as it's used often in shoe and leather making/repair work.

I think it comes in white and brown, though I've used only the white. You tie it in just as with the sinew - either using a tree, dowels or some combination of a dowel and secure tying point (or burly friend). You know you've got it tight enough (for reedmaking as well as tying in bags) when the waxy-thread turns from opaque to translucent.

Dionys

o'corragain · Post by **o'corragain** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:02 pm

Joe Smith wrote:

70# is perfect for stocks and works for reeds, but I would go with a lighter weight for reed making.

Thanks Joe

David

Joseph E. Smith · Post by **Joseph E. Smith** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 4:15 am

You're welcome. That'll $100 please.

chrisgrainge · Post by **chrisgrainge** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 1:53 pm

Thanks for all the help....

Stock now firmly tied in - used the 'cut a slightly smaller hole then stretch it' approach and tied it in (at least for now) with some dental tape as one of the suggestions, as was too excited to wait to get proper stuff!!

All works well, would have posted a picture but the digi camera just died

Now my full set works, my old practice set can go to ebay

Thanks again

Chris