Best way to mark flute sections for quick/accurate assembly
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Best way to mark flute sections for quick/accurate assembly
As I learn to switch from piper's grip to normal/standard grip, I find I am having to realign my flute and possible change the embouchure to get it playing well. Is there a best way to mark a wood flute, so that the sections can be put together quickly? I know some flutists scratch lines into the wood, but that seems abusive to me (not to mention, it reduces resale value). Another possibility is to put tape on the flute, but that might leave a gummy residue.
For now, I am using a cosmetic eyeliner pencil in a dark brown color. It comes off very easily and leaves no trace. Is there a better solution?
For now, I am using a cosmetic eyeliner pencil in a dark brown color. It comes off very easily and leaves no trace. Is there a better solution?
- hans
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Gaze down the length of your flute to line up those pretty holes
or offset them to your fancy
It is a lovely sight indeed, one you don't get while you are playing
On the other hand, if you are blind (and you won't be reading this, but perhaps your computer talks?), or playing in the dark, those wee metal studs Andrew mentions are just the ticket, just let them stick out a fraction and your finger will know what to do.
wish you Happy Christmassy times everyone
~Hans
or offset them to your fancy
It is a lovely sight indeed, one you don't get while you are playing
On the other hand, if you are blind (and you won't be reading this, but perhaps your computer talks?), or playing in the dark, those wee metal studs Andrew mentions are just the ticket, just let them stick out a fraction and your finger will know what to do.
wish you Happy Christmassy times everyone
~Hans
- BillG
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If you stand inder an overhead (ceiling) light, or looking out a window on a bright day, slight movement of the flute up and down while looking along the holes and the embouchure hole, you will see a stream of reflection. I use that stream of reflection as a marker. Its like the stream of reflection the moon leaves on a calm bay. You can gauge by it where the holes line up and remember the "right" spot.
I really do this!!
BillG
I really do this!!
BillG
BillG
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Six Ps! (Poor Prior Practice Prevents Proper Performance)
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Six Ps! (Poor Prior Practice Prevents Proper Performance)
- Whistlin'Dixie
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AndrewK, was the moon in the 7th House, and Jupiter aligned with Mars?
Sorry, couldn't resist.
(Only people of my ripe age will likely get this one, anyway....)
Sometimes, in the right light, it is possible to see certain grains in the wood, which you can use as guides to align your flute.
Actually, I line up my flute in a general way, then play with the headjoint as I go, moving it around very slightly until I hit the sweet spot just right. I don't think I ever have it the same way twice!
M
Sorry, couldn't resist.
(Only people of my ripe age will likely get this one, anyway....)
Sometimes, in the right light, it is possible to see certain grains in the wood, which you can use as guides to align your flute.
Actually, I line up my flute in a general way, then play with the headjoint as I go, moving it around very slightly until I hit the sweet spot just right. I don't think I ever have it the same way twice!
M
- chas
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I asked my teacher once about how to get the embouchure hole aligned correctly each time I put the flute together. He pointed out that I'm (anybody, for that matter) not generally playing exactly the same every time, and will generally have to make subtle adjustments. He advised against anything such as alignment marks.
I generally start with the far edge of the embouchure hole aligned with the centers of the tone holes. It varies with day, type of music, and flute, though.
I generally start with the far edge of the embouchure hole aligned with the centers of the tone holes. It varies with day, type of music, and flute, though.
Charlie
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"Our work puts heavy metal where it belongs -- as a music genre and not a pollutant in drinking water." -- Prof Ali Miserez.
- Terry McGee
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Andrew mentioned the alignment dots provided by Prowse on the Nicholson's Improved flutes. But I'd bet you'd be surprised to see the alignment that it appears Nicholson himself favoured. Check out:
http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/Nicholson's%20Flute.htm
Heh heh heh .....
Terry
http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/Nicholson's%20Flute.htm
Heh heh heh .....
Terry
- Whistlin'Dixie
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- Terry McGee
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I haven't seen any observations by Nicholson on it, but it is a really standard feature of Prowse's work. My experience is that it gives a quicker response, and slightly brighter, but at the cost of a little loss of tone, particularly in the lowest notes. Tone apparently wasn't Nicholson's problem - he had it in buckets - so maybe this really suited him. Most makers of the time stuck to around the 27mm mark, and earlier makers had preferred 28 to 29mm, presumably preferring the tone over the agility.eilam wrote:Terry, why the thinning of the head near the embouchure?
brightness, better response?
eilam.
Terry
One could see the Prowse / Nicholson arrangement even better on a T. Prowse flute which has just gone to Scotland which had a one piece middle section with the holes offset in the one piece of wood !
I was once the vogue to remove the long F keys on Prowses. Usually beautifully done, as has been done on the one I am offering.
I was once the vogue to remove the long F keys on Prowses. Usually beautifully done, as has been done on the one I am offering.