The perrenial question

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DrPhill
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The perrenial question

Post by DrPhill »

A couple of years ago I decide on a second attempt at flute (keyless). I proved I could get sound out of a Tony Dixon whistle with a flute head on it, but it seemed hard work. After reading here and asking around Tony Millyard sent me a flute on approval, and I found this a lot easier to play. I am sure that the Dixon was a fine flute but the Millyard suited me better.

The choice was driven entirely by opportunity - Tony had the flute ready and waiting so that is what I got. I do not regret purchasing it, and I can now do the full two octaves, albeit a little unreliably at either extreme. I am happy with my tone in the middle of the range.

But I find myself wondering if there is a flute better suited to me, and how would I find out. Are there any ways to narrow the search, or any clues as to which way to go? My only preferences are vague as befits a newbie: I prefer sweet to loud, and I like being able to rotate the upper tone holes independently of the lower. I prefer wood, but would consider delrin type materials. I play for my own pleasure.

I did try to get lessons round here, but the flautists had not encountered keyless flutes. The one I visited seemed more interested in me getting a proper flute and learning to read music.

I am happy to pootle along doing what I am doing, but wondered if there was an opportunity to explore a different avenue.

Any and all thoughts gratefully received....

Thanks

Phill
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by Loren »

DrPhill wrote:
But I find myself wondering if there is a flute better suited to me, and how would I find out. Are there any ways to narrow the search, or any clues as to which way to go? My only preferences are vague as befits a newbie: I prefer sweet to loud, and I like being able to rotate the upper tone holes independently of the lower. I prefer wood, but would consider delrin type materials. I play for my own pleasure.


Phill

Phill, based on your description I’d say order a small hole (“Rudall”) model flute from the Olwells and you’ll be set for life. I have one and it’s fabulous - really lovely sweet tone, fantastic response and tuning (of course), comfortable in the hand, easy to play as all Olwells are. It’s not a “quiet” flute per se, it’s capable of perfectly sufficient volume for playing with others in small to medium size sessions, depending on the instrument and players.....

I’d suggest going with Boxwood if you prefer a slightly less bright tone and if you play 30 min or less per day, or if you only play several days a week for up to 45 min. so. Blackwood would be a better choice if you prefer a little more brightness in tone or for daily long practice sessions, as the top tenon won’t get so tight on you during longer practice sessions.


I should say I also own an Olwell Nicholson, and have owned 2 Olwell Prattens, all fantastic, just slightly different. I also own/have owned tons of other flutes, point being, I’m not making a suggestion based on my infatuation with my current flute of the moment, or speculating based on what I’ve heard, read, imagined, or whatever, I’m simply offering a suggestion based on my personal experiences with regards to your description of what you’re looking. Hope you find something useful in it.

Good luck with your search, and beware the dreaded analysis paralysis :wink:
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by tstermitz »

As you have already noticed, some flutes are easier than others to play. It isn't necessarily easy to determine this from the description or other people's experience. The most experienced players can fairly easily play flutes that a newcomer would find impossible.

Trying yourself is important.

Working with a particular flute for a while is important.

I'd suggest working with your new flute for a while (a year or three!). Only after building up your embouchure will you be able to discern or get the most out of some other, random flute.
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by fatmac »

I have a number of keyless flutes, more than I need, bought to just try....... :D

It can be just like with whistles, there's always another one to try..... :wink:

If, as you say, you are getting on well with this particular one, it would be in your best interest to continue improving on it. :thumbsup:
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by chas »

The normal advice would be to go to a shop or session and try a few flutes on for size, but that's pretty much out the window now.

IIRC, Tony makes both Rudall- and Pratten-style flutes. If you want to try something different, I'd suggest getting one of the opposite variety to what you have. When I was starting out, I was under the impression that I would want a large-holed flute, but it wasn't till I tried a smaller-holed flute that something clicked.

When/if you do get something new, play it EXCLUSIVELY for a few months before beginning to pass judgment.
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by DrPhill »

Thanks for the replies - there are some interesting ideas in there. I looked at the Olwell and that sounds tempting - but I imagine that there is a long waiting list. It may be worth asking though.

Keep on playing what I have - yes, that is my default option. I found playing the Millyard flute a lot easier than the Dixon, and may not have stuck at practice had I not bought it. The difference was so great (for me) that I regard purchasing the Millyard as a turning point.

Try a different style of flute from the same maker. That is an idea. My trouble here is that I do not know enough about the way a flute design affects its playing. I chose a rudall style because my favourite low whistle is tapered and small holed (Bleazey). That was pure guesswork though. I am not a session player and so prefer a less strident instrument. I also assumed that a tapered instrument would be easier to play in tune across the octaves (purely by analogy to low whistles which may be flawed reasoning).

Maybe someone can point me to a description of the way flute design affects playing characteristics?

Thanks
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by Terry McGee »

"Try a different style of flute from the same maker. That is an idea."

Hmmm, I reckon a better idea is to try a flute from as many different makers you can find. I'm guessing (work needed here!) that a lot of the difference between flutes by different makers is how we cut our embouchures. I'm sure we all cut them to suit ourselves, and since we all differ....

Under more normal circumstances, I'd suggest getting yourself to some sessions and festivals, and asking other players if they'd mind you trying their flute. Most in my experience are very happy to swap for a few tunes. But that wonderful experience may not be back with us for a while yet. Where are you? There might be someone not too far from you who would be happy to try some of their flutes out on you.

"My trouble here is that I do not know enough about the way a flute design affects its playing."

I think that's a fair criticism of our field. I touch on it a bit in the descriptions of my 5 main models:

http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/models.html

I'm not suggesting here you'll want to go for one of mine as the prices may be higher than you were hoping for. But it might give you some ideas of directions that might be more suitable to you than others. If you're not getting the results you were hoping for, I'd be inclined to aim for a very easy-to-play flute like the Grey Larsen Preferred, and steer clear of "big" flutes like the Prattens. A bigger flute might come later.

I think we all have to remember that "good enough for a beginner" is one of the cruelest jokes in the flute business. The beginner needs all the help they can get to "get over the hump". The professional flute player could play a broomstick.
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by DrPhill »

Thanks Terry,

I appreciate the reassurance that a beginner looking for another flute may not be a ridiculous idea ;-)

Looking at your website the 'grey larsen preferred' does seem the best verbal match for my perceived requirements. Prices? well if that is what it costs then fine. What would concern me more would be the wait times (and maybe the import duties). I still do not understand all the other variations like lined/unlined, tuning slide v tenon, long/short feet etc.

I have emailed you as that may be simpler.
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by DrPhill »

Update:

Well, after doing some searching and some enquiring I failed to find a GLP this side of the pond - and I balked at giving the UK government almost 25% of the purchase price (they would only spaff it on their friends). I tried plan B and bought-on-trial a flute from Phil Bleazey. I have not seen much comment about them on this forum but my favourite whistle is one of his low Ds so I thought it worth the risk. It is a small hole RR keyless type and I instantly found it easier to play - especially at the top of the second octave. It is quieter than the Millyard, and sweeter. Personally, I like the simplicity of the lines and the lack of a foot-piece. So this is a good result.

I will still keep my eyes open for a GLP nearby though.....
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Re: The perrenial question

Post by BigDavy »

Hi DrPhil

You can swap heads between your whistle and your flute and both will still work. The low D is effectively a small holed RR body with a whistle head. I tried swopping bodies with a young friend (me whistle and him flute) and they worked perfectly.

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Re: The perrenial question

Post by DrPhill »

BigDavy wrote: Thu Apr 29, 2021 11:56 am Hi DrPhil

You can swap heads between your whistle and your flute and both will still work. The low D is effectively a small holed RR body with a whistle head. I tried swopping bodies with a young friend (me whistle and him flute) and they worked perfectly.

David
Thanks, I had suspected as much though I have not tried yet. Especially as my whistle has a c nat thumb hole which may be interesting to try on the flute (though 0x0xxx seems solid and stable).
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One does not equal two. Not even for very large values of one.
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