Bodhrán for my girl

[eran]

i know we are suppose to talk whistles here...
but i really could use a Bodhrán advice

i want to order a Bodhrán for my best friend (her birthday...)
willing to spend around 200 $

i see different sizes, tunable, nontunable... but dont know anything about this instrument

she doesnt play the Bodhrán yet but really wants to,
i want to buy her a good instrument that will last, not a begginers instrument.

i need to decide pretty fast...

so, what do u say?

[lixnaw]

here's a shop with sound samples, http://www.whistleanddrum.com/wd_bodhrans.asp

(i love the beat of the eckermann!!
colin goldie sells eckermanns too! http://www.overton.de/texte/accoustic.h ... Collection )

[Father Emmet]

I've never played one myself, but I have read that Waltons makes a good inexpensive one w/ gotskin head.

[illuminatus99]

you can get a pretty high end bodhran for $200, the walton's super pro retails for $165.

[stiofan]

Here's a resource you may find useful: http://www.ceolas.org/instruments/bodhran

I have a Malachy Kearns bodhran (http://www.bodhran.com/index2.htm) which I've been quite satisfied with, but honestly don't play that much. Happy hunting.

_____________________________________________________________
bodhran:
1. bodhran (noun, masculine): drum (in Irish traditional music).
2. bodhran (noun, masculine): 1) deaf person; 2) slow-witted person.

- Irish dictionary, Oxford Press, 2000

...sorry, just couldn't resist...

[Rando7]

Don't want to start any wars here, but if you are looking for something that she will be able to play a long time and not limit her, I would stay away from the Walton's and probably the Malachy Kearns. You may get a decent drum or you may get a nice wall decoration. Kearns used to be pretty good but his newer drums have been found lacking.

For 200 bucks you can get a single skin tunable Brendan White. I have heard some quality complaints about him as well but he does stand behind his drums. His drums are not pretty to look at (not the finish work you would find on an Alfonso for example) but generally have a good sound. You may have to break them in for a while.

Andrea Power sells a nice drum for 95 euros. I don't think it's tunable though and it is only 14 inches - often beginners are better off learning on a larger drum.

I have heard good things about Paraic McNeela drums - they are 200 euros or so and you can find them at Shanna Quay.

The better ones go up from there. I am sure I have forgotten a good drum or two, hopefully someone else can fill them in. Good luck!

[fearfaoin]

Here's what my teacher said when I took a beginner's class in Baltimore, MD:
It is not always a good idea to buy a bodhran in Ireland and bring it into a dryer climate (like, say, America or Israel) because the skin is sensitive to moisture, and may not be able to dry as much in moist Ireland as it most definately will elsewhere. This could cause the head or the wooden body to shrink, warp, or crack. It's also sometimes necessary to wet the heads when playing to get rid of high-frequency overtones, often moreso in Irish-made drums. Note that there is a pakistani drum (don't remember the name) that is very similar to the bodhran (almost indistinguishible, in fact) that may be a viable alternative.

Tuneable is not that useful for beginners, unless you are going to make recordings...

Don't get a bodhran with a painted head (often celtic designs will be painted on the skins of drums). This can distort the tone. Such drums are more for decoration, and sometimes are not built with a mind to how good the drum will sound.

One thing to consider is whether the drum has crosspieces in the back, attached to the frame of the drum. A technique in playing bodhran is pressing your hand against the back of the drum head, which changes the tone. Moving your hand varies the tone the drum makes. It sounds neat! Anyway, some beginners find that crosspieces make this technique easier, because you can widge your hand between the crosspieces and the head to hold the drum in place; otherwise you have to use the leg and your chest to hold the drum in place while your left hand is busy changing the tone... Of course, some more advanced players frown on crossbars, because they limit the movement of the left hand. Just something you have to decide. I have played both, and I like crossbars better with larger diameter drums. On smaller drums, crossbars really get in the way.

And don't forget to buy a nice tipper (the double-headed stick you beat the drum with), cause many bodhrans don't come with one.

[illuminatus99]

Note that there is a pakistani drum (don't remember the name) that is very similar to the bodhran (almost indistinguishible, in fact) that may be a viable alternative.

there's lots of fairly inexpensive bodhrans made in pakistan, some of them are even decent quality.

sometimes it is good to get a tunable one, it isn't really for recording, it helps for getting tension off of the head when it gets too tight in dry climates.

[Rando7]

Note that there is a pakistani drum (don't remember the name) that is very similar to the bodhran (almost indistinguishible, in fact) that may be a viable alternative.

there's lots of fairly inexpensive bodhrans made in pakistan, some of them are even decent quality.

sometimes it is good to get a tunable one, it isn't really for recording, it helps for getting tension off of the head when it gets too tight in dry climates.

I think he's referring to the Pakistani tar which is pretty much a bodhran with hole for your thumb in the rim. I think it's Mid-east that sells them interchangably and that was actually the first (awful) bodhran I ever bought (on EBay).

I agree with you on the tunable - it's more for adjusting to varying humidities.

[LeeMarsh]

Eran,
If your friend is just starting.

A nice case runs about 20 Dollars.


Things I'd make sure to get for beginning bodhran if I started over again:

1. Steafan Hannigan's Bodhran Basics, Tutor w/CD
2. Goat skin head; thicker the better (without paint).
3. Cross bars that are far enough from the head that I can slide my hand freely behind the head of the drum.
4. Size - Usually 18" are good for start, easier to learn on, and lots of folks stay with them.
5. Tippers run 5-10 dollars 2 or 3 to start.

You might want to get the book and CD first, Steafan has a lot of good material which would help you select a good drum for your use.

I have one of the Malachy Kerns Bodhrans with a simple paint job on the head. I wish it had been plain, but it was goat skin and I picked it up on ebay for arount 60 dollars (about half price). I moisten the head a lot, and plan to get an oil treatement to avoid having to do this to releave tension. I prefer a looser head so I can start with a more baritone drum and use may hand on the back of the head to produce higher tones.

[Brian Lee]

A few nots from one who both plays regularly and has recorded, though I wouldn't say I'm a big time pro by any stretch.

First, the rim is worth looking into. A good laminate works well though the cheaper drums are certainly much more prone to warpage and separation from the skin.

Second, the skin is also a major component as far as the structure goes. As a *general* rule the thicker the better. Thicker skins last much longer and will offer more resonance and fewer of the annoying, almost tinny sound of thinner less expensive heads.

Third, crossbars. If you can avoid them...do it. They are a basicly a crutch in playing and don't afford any real improvements as far as strength or tone are concerned. They will also be a large detriment to playing as they do limit hand movement on the back of the skin. I would suggest that anyone wishing to learn the drum in even a slightly serious capacity work to learn it all the way - for example, if you want to learn to play flute, you can't cheat on your embrochure...you just have to buck up and learn it.

Last, tuneability. Get it. This is not a novelty offered as an afterthought on the most expensive drums, it is almost a necesity on drums played in the US or for those who travel. Our climate here is such that even the thickest heads will change with the seasons. The tuneability isn't so much for tone as it is for playability.

Without a means of loosening the skin somewhat, the drum will likely be unplayable in many instances. You can always dampen the skin, but you can liken this to having to clear the windway of your whistle several times during a tune set. It also will change the qualtiy of the skin over time - sometimes leading to splits and cracking.

I'd also caution against the cheaper drums like Waltons and Malachy Kearns. The better drums will cost more - sometimes even getting up into the $500 range, but are well worth it.

My two cents.

Hope it helps.

Bri~

[MarcusR]

Hi Eran!
For 200 you will be able to get a nice drum that will last a long time.
If you want something more than a beginner (some would say tourist) bodhran I would skip the Waltons, Malachy Kearns, Gremlins ...
I started out on a Walton non tunable that was ok, got two Kearns (tuneable and non tuneable) that I didn't like at all, sounded like playing a cardboard box. I eventually passed the Walton on to a friend, hanged the non tuneable Kearns on the wall and reskinned the other. After a few tips on skin tanning and four wasted skins it turned out quite ok.

Tuneable is not that useful for beginners, unless you are going to make recordings...

I dont think its a matter of playnig in tune as much as being able to losen or tighten up the skin in order to adjust for climate change. If you live in Israel where I guess you have a dry climate with cold nights and hot days, a tunable would be a good choice.

If I were to spend around 200$ on a Bodhran myself I would get a
Brendan White, Seamus O'Kane or Eckermann. But hey, that just me and I'm not even buying, just dreaming.

Do some reading and send out some requests about getting one adjusted for the climate in Israel.

You will find some usefull information here:

Coeolas (above)
and
http://www.bodhran.cc/

There is also a C&F for bodhran players at
http://www.bodhranii.net even if it's a slow starter.

Cheers!

/MarcusR

[John-N]

I've got a Walton for sale if you're interested:

http://members.cox.net/928572663/walton.html

[edited: the drum above has sold, but I do still have the following two items available if anyone is interested (price is negotiable]

http://members.cox.net/928572663/howard.html
http://members.cox.net/928572663/alba.html

-John

[illuminatus99]

Note that there is a pakistani drum (don't remember the name) that is very similar to the bodhran (almost indistinguishible, in fact) that may be a viable alternative.

there's lots of fairly inexpensive bodhrans made in pakistan, some of them are even decent quality.

sometimes it is good to get a tunable one, it isn't really for recording, it helps for getting tension off of the head when it gets too tight in dry climates.

I think he's referring to the Pakistani tar which is pretty much a bodhran with hole for your thumb in the rim. I think it's Mid-east that sells them interchangably and that was actually the first (awful) bodhran I ever bought (on EBay).

I agree with you on the tunable - it's more for adjusting to varying humidities.

mid-east sells both tars and bodhrans, the difference being that the tars don't have crossbraces and their bodhrans do. but their bodhrans come with the thumbhole like a tar, they also come with a tipper

[David the Potter]

"You can always dampen the skin, but you can liken this to having to clear the windway of your whistle several times during a tune set. It also will change the qualtiy of the skin over time - sometimes leading to splits and cracking. "

I have played bodhran for many years and have never had a skin split. The trick is to rub neatsfoot oil into the front of the drum, the outside of the skin as it were, and only put water on the inside, if the skin is too tight. A tuneable skin is a really good idea as you can adjust skin tension, and therefore tone, very easily, using the dampening method only if you run out of thread. Neatsfoot oil keeps the skin supple and less susceptible to climatic change. If cold and damp is the problem, with the skin being too slack, a gentle heat such as a hair dryer works well. I always carry a hairdryer when I am gigging in England!

I agree that a thick and even skin, with no thin spots in goat is the best you can get, but deer skin is also good. A sturdy frame which will not warp or distort, with a nice bevel so as not to snag the skin is also essential. One cross brace helps to tension the drum with your hand, but does not impede movement. A good leather band around the edge, where the skin is pinned will help hold the skin tight without tearing.

As to make, there are so many drums made as souvenirs, especially with painted decoration, to be avoided at all cost. Proper instruments for playing tend to bought from individual makers. My best drum was made by Bill Wright from Galway, and is quite exceptional. It is worth paying a little bit more at this stage to ensure you have a drum which is going to be playable, and mature and improve in tone with time.

Best of luck.

David[/quote]