Hotrodding my frankenwhistle

[Whale]

Hey everybody!
M'name's Alex Pettit, and I've been whistling for about a year. I've got around 20 flutes and whistles of all kinds now. I have a REALLY banged up no-name tinwhistle that a friend gave to me a little while ago, and I'm looking to do some hotrodding.
Here's the deal-- the whistle's a conical rolled aluminum type, wooden plug. It was broken in half when I got it, so I soldered the two halves together. The whistle has a big crook in it now, but it's more ergonomic. I did some tweaking on the windway and lip to reduce the breathiness, but I really want to fix the block. It extends about 3 millimeters out past the mouth side of the windway, but the other end is tucked way behind the window, so there's a lot of empty space. What, if anything, should I do?

[Bloomfield]

You should align the inside side of the fipple block with the edge of the window closest to your mouth when you play. Sounds like that means pushing it in. The result should be that when you look straight down through the window, the fipple block doesn't not extend into the whistle and is not recessed back either.

That's the rule of thumb. There are some debates about whether the edge fipple block should be undercut or the windwayfloor extend out a bit (look at the new Sweet Pros for that). Overtons have the fipple block straight down, that's good enough for me.

Good luck.

[s1m0n]

I can't help seeing someone tooting a hot dog.

[Jerry Freeman]

Let the whistle tell you where the block should be positioned. It should be pretty obvious when you've located the best position.

Best wishes,
Jerry