One other thing to pay attention to when looking at the flutes is the hole alignment and spacing, and be sure what it is when you do purchase. I've gotten surprised a couple of times over this both with new and used flutes.

For example, Casey Burns offers six different finger hole options on his Folk Flutes. The holes can be in-line or ergonomic; and in either standard spacing, small hand, or large holed. Many other flute makers also offer in-line versus ergonomic.

I currently have two of his Folk Flutes, both ergonomic. A blackwood small hand, and a boxwood standard. I bought the blackwood here on C&F thinking it was the standard version; and was surprised when it arrived and found it to be small hand. Both are nice, but play and sound slightly differently from each other (of course, its also blackwood vs. boxwood). My point is to make certain you and the seller are clear with each other about the flute you may be purchasing. (And you might want to review the flute maker's website as well to understand more about their flutes.) When I look at some of the postings here, the sellers are not always clear in their description about what they are selling (and some might not even know if they are not the original owner).

Chris

PM Sent.

I can appreciate your situation. All of the suggestions here are good. As always... YMMV.

Currently, I have the Shannon, an M&E, a Somers, a Hammy and a Tipple. I had a Casey Burns, Sweetheart and a Seery. I miss the Burns. I miss the the Sweetheart. That said, I don’t regret for a moment the move away from wood to delrin. I’ve taken my Shannon to England, Scotland, Florida, Colorado, and every part of Washington and Oregon. It performed flawlessly in every place. I don’t know that one could ask for more. Great sounding easy player no matter where I go.

Again, YMMV. But, I honestly believe that you can’t go wrong with the Shannon.

2¢

_________________
Jim

the truth is not lost.
do not search for it.
accept it.

You've already received good advice, so this is simply a slightly more nuanced version of what's already been said. I think that given where you are located, your first flute should be delrin. I've played both Copley and Forbes delrin flutes and own a Forbes. They are both very, very good flutes. Not only good to learn on but good to keep and play for the rest of your life even after you acquire a wooden flute (there is a slight difference in the sound and a slight difference in the feel between the two materials, in favour of the wood). Since you live in Colorado, I would recommend the Forbes. The workmanship is outstanding, the intonation is excellent, and the sound is full and reedy. Rob has been experimenting with a new aluminum stopper which makes the sound noticeably brighter than the delrin stopper. (It won't mean anything to you at this point, but to me the contrast is between the brighter sound of an Olwell vs the slightly darker sound of a Grinter flute (I own and play Olwells but have also played Grinters).). I recommend the aluminum stopper. Finally, the Copley is a bit easier to play than the Forbes. If you have already developed a good embouchure on the Boehm flute, either should be fine, but if your embouchure needs further development, then perhaps the Copley would make more sense.

Well in that case buy my Hammy Hamilton Student D Irish Flute. Cylindrical bore like you are used to, big brash low D, lots of overtones if you want them and only $100.00

With the remainder of your stash of cash you can buy an African Blackwood Conical bore from the German Store, $275, and have $25 left over for beer

https://muzikhausberlin.de/product/iris ... ylon-case/

_________________
"The more you weigh the harder you are to kidnap,
be safe, eat more ice-cream"

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1298297360297681/

Hazing newbies with bad sources, are we? That's an actionable violation around here.

_________________
"Time is the wisest counselor of all." - Pericles

"I remain not entirely convinced of it." - Nano

OK, if we're going to be a hot mess, anyway, I might as well throw this in before we get this thread locked.

First off, the Original Poster can purchase the Hammy Practice flute direct from Hammy for less, $93 (Euro 85) new & worldwide shipping included.

http://hamiltonflutes.com/Prices_Waiting_List.html

Second, while the Hammy is good for someone wanting a low entry point & to learn/practice the embouchure, it's NOT going to be anyone's flute for life, but WILL be good for something to stash at the office or in a car for convenience. Cylindrical flutes without keys to help the reach (as in a Boehm flute) are a trifle difficult stretch and for most of us, not comfortable for long term playing.

Third, the OP's budget is going to be the main determining factor. Wait list time might be another limiting issue. I believe Damian Thompson might have a slightly longer fulfillment lead time than the others, but one should also check stock at any dealers they may use for the latest information, as well as watching the used marketplace.

IMHO, the best bets for affordable conical flutes that can certainly be used for years or forever, are:

A Copley Delrin D flute ($360 with no rings, $440 with rings for better appearance).
http://www.copleyflutes.com/catalog.html

A Gary Somers flute at $395 U.S. Choice of Pratten or Rudall-style. He's now based in Ireland.
http://www.somers-flutes.com/prices-contact

Walt Sweet Shannon flute - $275.
https://wdsweetflutes.com/shannon.php

A variety of Delrin flutes from Damian Thompson can fit within that budget, probably (prices are in GBP)
https://www.thompsonflutes.com/about

Over the budget:
Rob Forbes Delrin flutes:
http://www.forbesflutes.com/ordering.html

Same for the one wood flute I could recommend, the Casey Burns Folk Flute.
http://www.caseyburnsflutes.com/ff.php


Unless one gets a great used price, a Seery is currently far off mark for this budget.

_________________
International Traditional Music Society, Inc.
A non-profit 501c3 charity/educational public benefit corporation
Wooden Flute Obsession CDs (3 volumes, 6 discs, 7 hours, 120 players/tracks)
http://www.worldtrad.org

Pacific Northwest has many different climates. It's a big area. Mountains, ocean, high desert, hot rolling hills, rocky hills. Some areas have much rain, but also many periods of reasonable hmidity. Unless you live next to the ocean, you will have the same dryness issues as most other places, at least part of the year.

Yeah, I don't get the problem. I have wood flutes from England, Ireland, and America, and some have visited other countries, too. Not particularly prone to cracking. I do have some 170-year-old flutes - sure, some were cracked & repaired, some have not. I don't leave them lying out; they're in cases with humidifiers.

_________________
International Traditional Music Society, Inc.
A non-profit 501c3 charity/educational public benefit corporation
Wooden Flute Obsession CDs (3 volumes, 6 discs, 7 hours, 120 players/tracks)
http://www.worldtrad.org

(Waves at fellow Washingtonian!) Yes, and even if you live near the ocean, like I do out here on the Olympic Peninsula, the temperature can drop low enough in Winter that central heating drives the indoor humidity into the danger zone.

Nearby ocean water helps mainly as a temperature moderator. We're a little bit warmer in Winter and a little bit cooler in Summer compared to interior parts of the state, due to the ocean acting as a heat sink. But it doesn't really add any humidity if you have central heat drying out the air. I use room humidifiers during that time of year, not just for the musical instruments but also for antique furniture and general human comfort.

ETA: Right now the heat is running off and on with outdoor temps in the 30's to 40's F., and the indoor humidity is around 45 rh with no humidifiers running. I'll turn on the humidifiers when it starts to dip below 40 rh. We usually only get a few weeks later in the year out here, where the temps drop into the 20's and the heating and humidifiers are running full-time.

Yeah right!
First; incl shipping I paid $135.00 for it.

Second; As the photos show, it has an extra cut embouchure vent, and so yeah it costs more
Sale page on this link ..
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=109551

Third; It is a matter of opinion how well, or badly, a particular flute suits a player. I have seen many a master of the Cylindrical Irish flute play far better than the other one, IN Ireland long ever before your were born. And at this time ordering from Ireland will not deliver until after Christmas, mine is guaranteed to arrive in 3-5 days US Priority Mail FREE!

Fourth; The African Blackwood I suggest has been recommended to me by a native Irish flute player who has several CDs in print, and I have no doubt but that you have one of them, Kevin, or a bootleg of one in your CDs for sale.

I have no idea what the delrin flutes you recco are like, except for reports of wimpy sounding E, B and almost silent C natural, but I guess you do. Any road up I take the word of somebody I know pretty well, and like myself grew up in Ireland, before I would that of somebody I never met but on the Internet.

_________________
"The more you weigh the harder you are to kidnap,
be safe, eat more ice-cream"

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1298297360297681/

So why pass on hearsay? I have just one of them (Copley), but can tell you from personal experience that it has none of those faults!


I'm surprised you ever left...

_________________
And we in dreams behold the Hebrides.

Why I teach... and where
Master of nine?

Whut? dats not 'hazing' I got the reco from a published Irish flute player.

_________________
"The more you weigh the harder you are to kidnap,
be safe, eat more ice-cream"

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1298297360297681/

Ok ad hominem back to ya!

Are you as nasty a player as you are a person

_________________
"The more you weigh the harder you are to kidnap,
be safe, eat more ice-cream"

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1298297360297681/

"The high-speed materials were used in the production to ensure that the air flows through the flute."

Inspires confidence.