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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 7:44 pm 
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I am interesting in trying to make my own PVC Overtone Flute/Whistle, and am posting this here on C&F with the hopes that some of you with experience making whistles may be able to guide me in the process. Besides, I'm pretty miserable at making things and can use all the advice I can get. :-?

Nadishana has created a "chromatic" overtone flute as seen on this YouTube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mk2obS_jEpc

Obviously, changing the length changes the fundamental pitch. On the video @4:00, he is playing the instrument with no attachments, pitched in "A". It looks to be about 3 feet long in "A", and about 5' long down in the low A# range.


First question: Should the pitch chart (page 3) in this article about creating PVC didgeridoos apply to the closed tube of a low whistle? The lengths seem to correspond with the instrument length on the video at various pitches.
http://online.physics.uiuc.edu/courses/ ... eridoo.pdf


Second question: Should I attempt to make a fipple at the top of the overtone instrument like this video about a fujara? (single hole, not a slot)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIEu_YAFsJ8

OR... should I cut a slot long and cover the slot similar to this video? (It looks like Nadishana has a cover on the top of his instrument)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXnAXsMyCFU


Last question: What would be the best way to fashion the connector on the bottom for attachments? It looks like there is a coupling on the end. I assume that if the coupling hangs off an inch or two off the main instrument body, that would affect the pitch of the "A" and therefore should be taken into account when making the main pipe? Also, the attachments would have to be slightly longer than anticipated in order to compensate for an inch or two inside the coupling, yes?


OK I lied one more question... :P
Any idea where I can find the calculations for the chromatic half-steps not on the chart?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 7:59 pm 
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Moving/cross-linking to World/Folk Winds. - Mod

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 27, 2010 9:09 pm 
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Pure speculation.

Clarinetcat wrote:
First question: Should the pitch chart (page 3) in this article about creating PVC didgeridoos apply to the closed tube of a low whistle? The lengths seem to correspond with the instrument length on the video at various pitches.
http://online.physics.uiuc.edu/courses/ ... eridoo.pdf

I only see one tube diameter listed. I would think that you would want at least a 35-40:1 length to bore ratio the video you listed mentions 50:1. Any changes to the diameter will change pitch and 1/4" pipe would be a high pitched pipe at 50:1

Clarinetcat wrote:
Second question: Should I attempt to make a fipple at the top of the overtone instrument like this video about a fujara? (single hole, not a slot)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIEu_YAFsJ8

OR... should I cut a slot long and cover the slot similar to this video? (It looks like Nadishana has a cover on the top of his instrument)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXnAXsMyCFU

The second one seems more like most every whistle and tabor pipe I have seen.
Clarinetcat wrote:
Last question: What would be the best way to fashion the connector on the bottom for attachments? It looks like there is a coupling on the end. I assume that if the coupling hangs off an inch or two off the main instrument body, that would affect the pitch of the "A" and therefore should be taken into account when making the main pipe? Also, the attachments would have to be slightly longer than anticipated in order to compensate for an inch or two inside the coupling, yes?

If it is PVC there should be in line connectors that will allow a nice friction fit. walk through the hardware store and I am sure you will find them. Something like a trombone slide that could be locked into position seems like it would allow more flexibility and fewer parts.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 7:23 pm 
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Having no flute-making experience at all and basing my opinion on absolutely nothing of value or relevance whatsoever, I will now wield the following supposition with absolute authority: I have a feeling that the trombone idea might work. Well, I am an old trombonist and know how they function. I suppose a flute could work the same way. You could, in theory, combine all the disadvantages of the trombone and the overtone flute in a single instrument! PDQ Bach would love it! :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 5:48 am 
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I've made a few overtone flutes on the Slavic model. Mr. Ap Broch makes Overtone flutes on the Scandinavian model.
I'm at work and can't view the videos but I'll have a look as soon as I can.
The Slavic model is the one with the windway cover. The Scandinavian model is the one with the more elaborate fipple.

I'd say make a couple of non-chromatic flutes before you go for a chromatic job.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 04, 2010 3:52 pm 
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I have actually made a few overtone flutes on the basis of the last video. As the man says, it's a three-minute job. In fact it's a bit longer than that, but the basic principle of the thing can be put together in minutes. I have put holes in some, like a fujara, but haven't found this very useful. With the simple Konchovka, you get a sort of strange range of notes just by overblowing.
Here is the willowflute/konchovka range in ABC notation.
"And the willow flute can play C G C E G Bb C D E F G Ab Bb B C"
C,2G,2C2E2G2^A2c2d2e2f2g2^g2^a2b2c'2
The Nadisha guy is covering the end of his (very long) flute with the palm of his hand. For a Willowflute/Konchovka, it's easier to compress the end of the flute to a narrow section - it makes no difference to the sound - so that you can cover the end with one finger. Covering the end gives you a note about three tones above, and you can also half-cover the end to give about four tones up. So you can get a fairly "fairly" comprehensive range of notes. It's possible to play "Norwegian Wood", "Country Roads", "Look what they done to my song" and even "Peg Ryan's Polka" and "MacCrimmon's Lament".
The complicated fipple with the soft plastic tubing is interesting. If you imagine that being blown directly from the other side, with no bore through the fipple, that's a Scandinavian-type fippled Willowflute. The Slavic Konchovka fipple is a damn sight easier to make.
The general rule of 1/50 bore to length is true for both didgeridoos and overtone flutes. However... for didgeridoos, you calculate for the entire length of the pipe. For overtone flutes, you calculate from the windway blade. Frankly, I've no idea how valid the PDF values are. They're a place to start, though.
I haven't seen the Didgeridoo document before. Thank you. I'll have a go at that.
My konchovkas are 22mm internal diameter, and 850mm long, and 15mm internal diameter and 760mm long. You can make them shorter, but this changes the fundamental tone, and may reduce the range. The 850mm is really as long as I can comfortably play. That's the limiting size if you are going to use a simple konchovka fipple. If you are going to make them longer, then a soft tube-fipple is the way to go.
PM me if you think I might be able to contribute any more.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 8:22 am 
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Making overtone flute without side holes (Slovak koncovka) is easy, the fipple has to be made like in a recorder, or it could be made like in Native American flute, both ways create the tone. Then the tube length and its bore has to be in correct ratio: for koncovka the aspect ratio (length divided by inner diameter) is around 40. For the same length the overtone tube inner diameter is much smaller then for the same size regular flute.
But do you really spend the time making it, or would you rather get one and start to play? You could get one made from wood from Slovakia for less then $40.
Do you live in USA and would like to learn to play both fujara and koncovka in one week and get a koncovka in the class?
Watch this video and tell me if you don't agree that fujara sound is not out of this world?
http://www.carrollcountytimes.com/news/ ... story.html
Both fujara and short koncovka are very easy to play, and you could learn to play them as well, no music experience in necessary. The class is available just once in a year in summer,.
Following information is for 2017 :
The summer classes will start in 6 months,
Pick one of the following:
the Traditions Week 1: June 26 - 30, 2017
or
the Traditions Week 2: July 3 - 7, 2017
and pick the course (Beginner, or Advanced)
Thank you, and please let me know if you have any questions or concerns. This will be the 7th year of the popular course, let's make it the best ever!
Bob Rychlik - you can contact me for more information here: fujara@gmail.com
P.S. The Festival will be following after Week 2, on Saturday July 8th, 2017.
At the link bellow, there are still dates and information from 2016, it will be updated in early 2017, and by that time I need to know which week would you prefer:
http://www.commongroundonthehill.org/index.html


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