Tipple vs. Flutomat

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hpinson
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Re: Tipple vs. Flutomat

Post by hpinson »

I just finished a one-piece based on following Doug's "Make a Simple Irish Flute" posted directions very precisely. The tuning using the measurements as provided is quite good. A little undercutting here or there might be needed on a tone hole.

Thank you for providing those Doug!

I do have several comments on the construction.

-- Plan on making a few. Improvements in your build technique will suggest themselves.

-- The embouchure was the trickiest bit, and it is going to take a few more tries to get it quite right. Even so, my first try plays ok - just not as nice as it could be. I want to experiment with the oval embouchure. I am reading everything I can on embouchure -- there is not too much on the net -- good stuff on Terry McGee's site though.

-- A more ergonomic finger placement can be had by drawing two or three parallel lines to the bore, rather than one. Then Place your fingers on those lines to understand where tone holes should be placed best for you. The masking tape technique that Doug describes makes fine tuning tonehole placement a breeze.

-- I used the 5/16" hole rather than the 1/4" for the R3 finger, because I have big hands. Works for me, but I could see how that could cause problems for someone with smaller hands.

-- Having the luxury of a metal lathe, the next one I make will be two piece, and making the tenon will be a challenge. This is all good, cheap, practice for moving up to making a wooden tenon. I found that turning PVC can make a mess if you don't do it right - strings of binding chips or melty smelly work. I did some research and found that a rounded head HSS cutting tool (high top and back rake) or a removable carbide cutter (DCGX 3(2.5)1 AL H10) made for cutting aluminum works well, combine that with a fast feed rate, low-medium rpm (900rpm?). aggressive cuts, and a high rake angle that keeps the chip from winding around the work should all help, but it is tricky to get a nice finish.
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skyspirit
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Re: Tipple vs. Flutomat

Post by skyspirit »

Well here is my take. I use the Bracker calculator. I use the just intonation. What I have found is that you make sure that the od and wall is correct. I have been using 10 by 12 mm oval cut emb. Any changes in the aforementioned measurement really affect the length from emb (center) to end of flute. I am cutting in the emb and then cutting off at the end until I get the bottom or bell note. This has been very close with the above calculator.

I mark the holes. And, here is the starting points. Yes, starting points. You need to go slowly up to the hole diameter mentioned. I suggest tuning the bottom three and then the top three. Use a tuner. Note the cents. I use mm bits and go about .5 mm below the above calculator readings (you can always take off more than you can put on). Use files and fine sand paper near the end. Go slow. Let the flute dry out. Swab it out for pvc shavings. Go back and tune some more. Play it and listen. You should be able to play a flute if you want to make one.

Yes, the emb is the most important cut. Yes, you have to make thousands to get it right. How do I know? I have had to make them for about a year or so. And, I am still perfecting them.

Good luck! Have fun! I do. :D
Learning how to learn....my music teacher
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Doug_Tipple
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Re: Tipple vs. Flutomat

Post by Doug_Tipple »

Thanks to Skyspirit for his/her additions to this thread, which only goes to show you that there is usually more than one good way of going about making anything, in this case a pvc flute.

Skyspirit, I have to admit that you lose me when you say that you need to let the flute "dry out". Actually, you don't need to let pvc dry out, but you do have to swab out the moisture and pvc chips for the best performance. This also holds true for a completed flute. Unlike some flutemaking materials that absorb moisture, such as wood, pvc does not absorb moisture, so beads of moisture collect in the headjoint mostly as you are playing. The flute will perform a lot better if the moisture is swabbed from the flute rather frequently. I provide a long steel/cotton swab that allows you to do this without taking the flute apart. I have also seen players of the silver concert flute pull a silk swab through the flute after every piece that they performed.

Skyspirit also mentioned about needing to make a great number of embouchure cuts before "getting it right". My thoughts on this are a little different. I don't think that there is such a thing as an embouchure size and cut that is just right. There are all kinds of embouchure sizes, shapes, and cuts, and there are many combinations that work for some people. High quality concert flutes have a number of different embouchure cuts that you can buy, and each one plays and sounds differently. I offer two embouchure cuts, a smaller circle and a slightly larger oval. They play and sound differently, but I like both of them.
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