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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2001 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2001 6:00 pm
Posts: 2226
Location: Kickin' it Braveheart style...
I've just purchased a very nice 9 year old keyless Copeland flute, was wondering if anyone had the specs for the embrochure center to head joint cork distance.

Thanks,

Michael


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2001 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2001 6:00 pm
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I've heard something about 16mm from the middle of the emboucher hole to the start of the cork. I'm not sure about that, however what I use is something Paul McGratten told me: I know it works, and it's very simple. The distance should be the diameter of the headjoint from the center of the emboucher hole back to the cork. A simple way to check is take a cleaning rod (or, say, a tinwhistle) and hold it perpendicular to the head joint lining. Make a mark on the whistle. Now put it in the headjoint, and look in the emboucher hole and try to get the mark dead center when the tip reaches the cork. You can put a dime against the cork (so as not to damage it) and use the whistle to move it 'till it lines up.
I'm interested in other folks have to say about how often they adjust, and by what measurement. It makes a pretty dramatic difference in the tone, at least with my flute.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2001 6:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2001 6:00 pm
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Location: Loveland Ohio
A good starting point for the tuning cork is one head tube diameter back from the center of the embouchure as e mentioned in the previous reply. This will be around 19mm or just under 3/4 inch for most flutes. It is worth buying a 5/8 inch diameter dowel from the hardware store and making marks from 15 to 25 mm from one end (or 5/8 to 1 inch depending on your preferred units). You can use the dowel to move the cork and measure its position. The final adjustments should be made by playing and checking the tuning between the first and second octaves (assuming you will not be playing much in the third octave). If the upper octave is flat relative to the lower, then move the cork towards the embouchure a mm or so and try again. If the upper octave is sharp, move the cork away from the embouchure.

Dave Copley

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dcopley on 2001-09-13 20:32 ]</font>


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