Hi all,

just checking if anyone has a preference regarding glue when fixing up flutes, I have headjoint which I think is cocus, it has a crack right through the headjoint, I have managed to remove the liner and the metal bands and have cleaned out the gunk and wax that the crack was filled with, I gave the whole headjoint a drink of almond oil nd left it for a week, it is now possible with not to much hand pressure to get the crack to seal.

so what do I use for the glueing process, I have plenty of rosewood and blackwood dust which I can mix with wood glue, I have been looking at Evostick wood glue, which says stronger than wood on the bottle, they also do an extra strengh version as well, or do I use superglue or crazy glue?????

cheers sponge

Cyanoacrylate! The fluid stuff. Has a tendency to draw itself into cracks and can be mixed with dust to create a resin for invisible repairs. Good stuff.

Unfortunately, I think that by oiling the bejabbers out of it to get the crack to seal, you've seriously cut down your chances of a) getting any kind of glue to stick, and b) keeping the crack from popping back open afterward. By all means try, but I'm betting that you'd be better off closing the crack sans liner, then getting the head re-reamed for the liner. Good luck,

Rob

You can clean the crack with some lacquer thinner to clean out the oil, and you can also use baking soda to clean the crack, and help the glue to hold. I use CA glue that is made for wood. You can get it at a woodworking store.

Hey Sponge,

You need to remove the oil and wax from the crack first. I'ld try irrigating the crack with acetone, then let it dry and then irrigate again and finally a third time. The glue can't bond with wax or oil in the wood.

Cyanoacrylate = Super Glue (Good Stuff).

After glueing the crack, use hose clamps to close the crack till the glue cures. You will probably need to apply additional coats of glue to fill the crack.

The excess glue can be scraped off with a knife. Don't cut it off with the knife, scape with the knife edge perpendicular to the wood. Then final polish with steel wool.

The head can be reamed out with a dowl or section of pipe with coarse sandpaper wrapped around it. Double sided tape can keep the paper on the stick. This method takes some elbow grease and care. Try to keep the sanding even throughout the head. Keep the liner handy to check for a snug fit.

Take your time and enjoy!

Ditto what others have said about superglue. I used to repair violins, and hide glue was the traditional glue that the purists were adamant about. Hide glue allows you to glue the instrument together and to remove the top again without destroying the wood. However, one of the problems with hide glue, besides its mess and smell, is that the bond isn't very strong and is susceptable to heat. Leave your violin in the trunk of your car and it is apt to self destruct.

Not wanting to go to the trouble of removing the top from an old violin, I removed it loose from the ribs about a third of the way around the top. Now, being able to move the top along the base bar crack, I glued it with conventional hide glue. Several months later the crack was open again. I did this a couple of times until I decided to use a simple superglue fix. I put masking tape along the edges of the crack so that the glue would not come in contact with the top. Superglue is great because it will wick into the inner surface of the crack, something that white glue or hide glue will not do. I'm please to say that the super glue repair of a base bar crack (a difficult one) has held for more than five years.

Thanks a bunch guys, I didn't consider the oil being a problem, but thinking about it now makes sense, trying to glue something cover in oil would be a lost cause, i'll carefuly apply some acetone or similar product, and leave for a day or so then have a go with the super glue fix.

i'll keep you all informed

cheers sponge

Sponge - check out the sequence of pictures of repairing a head crack (with notes) on iainbeag's K Prowse flute I have posted on Facebook - you may find it helpful, if a touch more complex a job than most.... and Jon C has some good repair pics on his FB too.

Definitely go with superglue for the crack once its clean. And I agree you should go the whole hog and pull and refit the liner if you want a decent, lasting job. If you use a fine half-round metal file rather than sandpaper to ream out the bore, you can save the dust to use to top-dress your glued crack.

Geez, if you've got hose clamps, why even bother with the glue?

I have some “krazy glue” I looked to see what was in it and it says it contains
ethyl cyanoacrylate…same stuff right? It is just a different label right? Anybody have anything bad to say before I use it instead of super glue? Thanks.

That will work.
Good luck!

Krazy Glue is the right type of glue, but it is a bit thick for the best crack repair - better to buy some of the water thin type super glue.

Loren

Krazy glue in a 'pen' rather than a tube is more fluid.

Its meant for wood.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/887500.asp