Concert flute: Gemeinhardt vs Jupiter

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Dave Parkhurst
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Post by Dave Parkhurst »

As I've said before, I now own a Jupiter 511 which I'm teaching myself on. I have a question for those more learned than myself: I find Gemeinhardt much easier to play in the top 2nd and 3rd octaves than the Jupiter, although the Gemmie's bottom is not nearly as solid as the Jupiter. Is this because of my untrained embouchure or do others find this to be true?
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Post by DaveAuty »

Hi Dave,

I have a Gemeinhardt with a low B and used to find the low notes C and B quite difficult.
One reason is because the pinky tends to flap around a bit, therefore not getting onto the key properly. Also if the pads are leaking at all then this would affect the note. I can't compare with a Jupiter as I have never tried one but my Gemeinhardt produces good solid low notes.

One tip you might or might not know about is... if you rub your pinky on your forehead or side of the nose, that puts on a bit of grease, making it easier to slide off the Eb/D# to C# and Cnat keys!

Just in case you dont know...you should keep your pinky on the Eb/D# key all the time to help with the balance.
Excuse me if this is all common knowledge to you.

Dave.
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Dave Parkhurst
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Post by Dave Parkhurst »

on the contrary... I appreciate the advice! thank you....
dave
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peeplj
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Post by peeplj »

On any Boehm-system flute, for the lowest notes to be solid all the pads must be sealing and all the adjustments must be regulated with 100% accuracy.

Pads which don't seal well, or an out-of-adjustment linkage, will affect every octave, of course, but the lowest notes may well become impossible to hit without extremely hard finger pressure, if at all.

In the second and third octave, another critical part of the tone and responsiveness of the instrument is the proper venting--each key is supposed to open only a certain amount over its tone hole. If this is off, the tone suffers and the instrument doesn't "sing." It is just as bad to have keys that vent too high as it is to have them vent too low.

In the third register the proper positioning of the tuning cork really comes into play for both tuning and responsiveness.

Also a leaking head cork will destroy the responsiveness of the flute in all registers.

If you need the proper venting measurements, let me know and I'll email them to you.

Best wishes,

--James
http://www.flutesite.com
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Post by eaiman »

I have a solid silver Gemeinhardt, B foot, inline G. Even after adjusting I have difficulty playing low B reliably. I suggest you look at Pearl, Miyazawa, and Altus flutes. Each is more expensive than my Gemeinhardt (which retails for about $1600), but the hand work in the 3 brands I mentioned makes playing low B and the higher octaves much easier. I have tried all 3 brands. I was least impressed with the Pearl, although it is less expensive than the other 2. I bought an Altus 1107. All have a web site: http://www.altusflutes.com, http://www.miyazawa.com, Pearl I don't remeber. Before sale and aftermarket service is excellent for the Altus and Miyazawa. I tried several head joints for all 3 brands before buying the Altus.
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Post by peeplj »

On a Boehm-system flute with a low-B foot joint, the low B is the "bell note." With all keys down, the flute is the simplest instrument it ever becomes, essentially a long metal tube with an embouchure hole.

If you are having difficulty producing this note, it can only be caused by one of four things:

1. You; either your fingers are not sealing the keys adequately, or your embouchure isn't centered and developed.

2. There is a leak in a pad or in the head cork.

3. The mechanism isn't adjusted properly.

4. The flute is physically damaged.

Please do be aware that often local repair shops only pad and adjust a flute "good enough" to get a high-school band student through marching season. Even the best instruments will not play well when given such treatment, and the lowest notes will ususally not be playable without extreme finger pressure on the keys.

Any flute which is well-made and not physically damaged can certainly play the low B strongly, no matter what brand it is, if it is well-padded and in adjustment. The inony is that because it is the bell tone, low B is the note usually most similar from flute to flute. The thousands of dollars in price differences have to do with the <i>rest</i> of the scale.

Best wishes,

--James
http://www.flutesite.com
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Post by DrGiggles »

It looks like most of the advice is covered. One little tidbit I'd like to offer is try contacting the manufacturer of the flute and see if they can recommend any repair facilities in your area.

Personally, my high-end flutes (Platinum Powell and Gold Muramatsu) get sent back to the factory every year for a "check-up". But my Pearl, Haynes and Gemeinhart get checked by a wonderful repairman in Los Angeles who was recommended to me by the William Haynes flute company.

I *MUST* emphasize a point made earlier. Do NOT take your flute to the first music store that says it can repair instruments. Most of the time, it's taken off-site anyway.

For future reference, unlike the whistle, many reputable music stores will let you try out a plithera of flutes out if you're serious about buying one. I would always suggest this if at all possible.

Good Luck and happy flutter-tounging. :smile:
Frank
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