Substance for filling in holes on wood flutes?

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skh
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Post by skh »

On another list, a recorder player recommends the waxes that dental technicians use. He says the waxes are very sticky, have a higher melting point, and that there are special tools available for dental technicians for working very precisely with warm wax.

Unfortunately I don't know a dental technician, but maybe you do ;-)

I really wouldn't put something "permanent" on an antique flute, especially if you dislike the tuning - chances are that it is meant this way, if you like it or not, and that you are destroying some evidence later generations might be very interested in. Doesn't apply to modern factory-made recorders, of course.

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JessieK
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Post by JessieK »

skh wrote:I really wouldn't put something "permanent" on an antique flute, especially if you dislike the tuning - chances are that it is meant this way, if you like it or not, and that you are destroying some evidence later generations might be very interested in.
Well, I agree with the second part...future generations might like to put the flute on a shelf and not play it at all, because the tuning is so out-dated, but about the fact that it was meant to be that way, tuning has changed a lot over the last 200 years, and (perhaps) unfortunately, a well-playing instrument is worth more than a flute you would hang on the wall.
~JessieD
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skh
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Post by skh »

Many people play and enjoy historical tunings. I'm not against retuning an antique flute at all, I just wouldn't want to destroy the historical value of an instrument when there's an alternative that works just as well. And if I want a flute that plays and sounds like a modern wooden flute, I get just that - a modern wooden flute.

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Post by JessieK »

Well, yes, many people play flutes tuned to A=415. And I prefer modern flutes' tuning to older ones'. But there is something magical about a 200 year old 8-key flute. And if the F sharp is severely flat and the A is severely sharp, it's not playable. A non-playable old flute by a maker who is known a little, but not hugely, is worth a few hundred dollars. A playable flute by a maker who is known a little, but not hugely, is worth a couple of thousand dollars. It's like the opposite of numismatics (coin collecting). I think, if the tone of the flute is pleasing and everything but the tuning is right on, the tuning should be modified. Classical flutists who play on (old, as they all are) Louis Lot flutes have generally had most of the holes completely moved, so as to be in modern tune.
~JessieD
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skh
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Post by skh »

It just hurts to think of epoxy on a - so far - well-preserved antique instrument. But go ahead, I can't keep you from doing it anyway.
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Post by JessieK »

It's already had cracks in the ivory filled in with some sort of epoxy. It was done by a very experienced flute repairer. Thank you for your input and I may ultimately decide that I agree with you. I'll try beeswax on the sharp note for now.
~JessieD
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Post by glauber »

Another suggestion is to ask in the Yahoo "flutemakers" group. There are a lot of restorers there, they may have other suggestions.

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Post by Loren »

I was thinking (when this thread first started), that a crescent shaped piece of wood or plastic could be added inside the hole, and then filed/sanded to the proper tuning, but wasn't sure how well that would work.

Today I got to watch Patrick Von Huene do something similar with an oversized recorder thumbhole: He glued a circular insert (with a hole in the center) into the thumbhole, then shaped the outside (on the milling machine and with hand filing) to match the curve and taper of the outside of the recorder. After that he adjusted the size of the hole and undercutting to bring this previously out of tune recorder back into tune. Took him about a half hour, maybe a little less, and the recorder was perfectly in tune and looked excellent when he was finished. Perhaps something similar would work in certain circumstances, on some flutes.

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Post by Seanie »

Hi

I play an eight key, 1846 Francis Fentum Flute (thats nice alliteration) that has an inset in both the B and A (top two) holes. The inset is made from a small strip of cork. It is not glued in. The strip was cut out and a circular shape made. The tension keeps it in the hole. If the inset works you could consider making it more permanent.

Regards

John
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Post by JessieK »

Cool, thanks.

:)
~JessieD
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