slight leaky key

michael_coleman · Post by **michael_coleman** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 4:40 pm

I was wondering what I would do about a slightly leaky key. It seems as though the spring is not strong enough to seal the hole entirely. This is compounded if the key is moved ever so slightly up (there is some play in where the key is attached to the post). Any suggestions.

Post by **Nanohedron** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 5:12 pm

Which key is it? As to a bit of shiftiness, you can try a small screwdriver (the sort you'd use on a pair of eyeglasses) to see if the fulcrum part firms up; worked for me in one case.

dcopley · Post by **dcopley** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 5:22 pm

I would start by trying to figure out why the key is leaking. It could be caused by the light spring pressure you described, but if the pad is properly aligned and in good condition, it takes very little spring pressure to create a good seal. Start by taking the key off and looking at the pad. If it feels hard and has no resilience, then it needs to be replaced, and it's probably time to replace the other pads as well. Also look at the impression made on the pad by the edges of the hole. If this is not a complete, even circle, then the pad is not pressing evenly on the hole, and you can correct the problem by re-aligning the pad. While the key is off the flute, take a good look at the condition of the hole. If the edges are chipped or uneven, this will cause leakage.

Another way to check pad alignment is by fitting the key back on the flute and sliding a very thin "feeler" under the pad (a piece of wrapping material from a cassete tape makes a good feeler). If you feel no resistance at some locations, then there is not enough contact there.

You should be able to re-align the pad by using gentle heat (from an alcohol lamp or even a match) to soften the shellac, and then sliding it around until it seats evenly. You can also get a pretty good idea of what is going on by looking carefully at the alignment of the key cup, the pad, and the hole.

Good luck,
Dave Copley
Loveland, Ohio

chas · Post by **chas** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 7:49 pm

I've had some luck with an old 6-key by wrapping a leaky pad with teflon tape. It seems that just a little bit of misalignment or a burst membrane or rough pad can be corrected that way. Probably not broadly applicable, but easy and cheap and easy to try.

fluter_d · Post by **fluter_d** » Wed Oct 15, 2003 10:18 pm

If the key isn't sealing because the pad is not indented by and aligned with the hole edges, it is possible to seal the pad - whether temporarily or more permanently depends on the condition of the pad, as per Dave's post - by getting a rubber band and wrapping it over the pad end of the key, and around the barrel of the flute. Co-ordinating colors are optional

. But really, if you just need this sealed for a short period of time, or until you get time to fix it or get it fixed by someone else, this may be a good short-term solution. It's also a really 'Irish flute player' thing to do, if that makes you feel any better about it.
However, this will also effectively disable the key - you won't be able to open it while the band is around it. So only try if you're not planning to use the key.
Ignore if you wish!

Deirdre

Steven · Post by **Steven** » Thu Oct 16, 2003 8:52 am

Although Dave's advice is (of course) very good, there is the issue that you might not be comfortable taking the key off the flute. I know I don't know how to do it or even what tools to use, so I don't think I'd want to try it on my old German 6-key. I'm just not confident that I wouldn't damage it and not be able to get it back on right.

However, you do have another option. Go to any music store and ask if they can recommend a good woodwind repair person who has experience with things like flutes (even metal ones) and clarinets. They should have no problem with the keys and pads on your wooden flute.

Good luck!

Steven

Cathy Wilde · Post by **Cathy Wilde** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 1:06 pm

Ah, the leaky key: subtle problem, huge offender.

A good quick fix, which I learned from the inimitable John Skelton, is to cut a piece of wine-bottle cork and wedge it under the offending key until you can get the springs retensioned (any flute, oboe, or clarinet repair shop should be able to do this for you). HOWEVER, when you aren't playing the flute, be sure to take the cork out. Otherwise you'll loosen the spring further.

And it's worth the money ($50ish?) to have the springs retensioned. Once I did that and had the turning cork resealed at my local band instrument repairer (about $100 total), I had an entirely different flute -- one that I now absolutely love.

Hope this helps!

bradhurley · Post by **bradhurley** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 1:57 pm

Steven wrote: there is the issue that you might not be comfortable taking the key off the flute. I know I don't know how to do it or even what tools to use, so I don't think I'd want to try it on my old German 6-key.

Those old German flutes were post-mounted rather than block-mounted...it's easy to remove a pin from a post-mounted key but it does involve a trick: one end of the pin is probably slightly flared to prevent the pin from dropping out. Take an awl or the point of an opened safety pin and push the pin out from the opposite side of the post (pushing on the non-flared end of the pin so that the flared end emerges from the post). Push the pin back in when you're done with the narrow end going into the hole (the flared end won't fit).

On a block-mounted flute it's easier to remove the key because the pin usually has a bend on the end that you can just pull to yank it out.

When adjusting springs, be careful. Depending on how the key was made, it can be pretty easy to snap off the spring. I've only rarely adjusted a spring on any of the keys on my flutes, but I know flute players who do it all the time. It makes me nervous.

fluter_d · Post by **fluter_d** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 2:20 pm

Also, if you're removing keys, be sure not to lose the pins. They're incredibly easy to drop. I find that putting the pin back into the hole in the key while it's off helps (if you're working on the flute body - if you're working on the key itself, then thread it back through the mount mechanism). This way, not only will you know where the pin is, but also (if you're taking off more than one key at a time) which pin goes through which key! On older flutes, the silver can stretch somewhat, and so some of the key pins on my Rudall are slightly bowed. If you know which pin came from where, you'll have much less trouble getting the keys back on.
Deirdre