Tips for managing intonation using 150+ year old flute

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est
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Tell us something.: Kind of a beginner with a keyless flute and an antique wooden flute with keys. Used to play accordion back some time ago, but trying to focus on the flute, until I can get some degree of command over it.

Re: Tips for managing intonation using 150+ year old flute

Post by est »

johnkerr wrote:Many (probably most) flutes that are 150 years old were not made to play at A440 with the tuning slide at the optimal position, i.e. that position at which the internal tuning remains true note-to-note, given of course the temperament in vogue at the time of making, which may have been equal or maybe not. Who knows? The flute, assuming it still plays (which is what the Olwells did for you) can be made to play an A at 440 by adjusting the tuning slide. But then the internal tuning will be out of whack. An experienced player will eventually learn how to lip all the notes (mostly) in tune internally with the slide at the A440 position, but it takes a while. Perhaps years. Best not attempted via weekly attendance at your local session, unless the other players are very, very forgiving.

My advice then would be to play this flute at home, while you learn how to lip all the notes in tune at the A440 position or simply find the original sweet spot on the slide and enjoy playing it by yourself at that position, and find another flute to play with others in the interim. Your best bet for that would of course be a modern flute.
Yeah, I'm leaning in this direction. The more I play the real flute, the less I enjoy playing the plastic one, even though I'm still struggling to really feel comfortable with the weight and balance of the wooden one. I also really miss being able to just grab the plastic flute from it's flute stand to play whenever which I delrin would be OK to leave like that, I think.

If I were to place an order with Copley or someone like that, should I opt for similar embouchure and finger holes or should I go with the larger sized holes (pratten style?) like the plastic flute I am most used to from the plastic flute? It seems wise to avoid mixing the two when you are learning...but you never know.
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Tell us something.: Started playing trad about 25 years ago with tin whistles, and bought first flute about 20 years ago. Played very sporadically, with very little discipline or tuition and unsurprisingly made little progress. Started playing again a couple of years ago after not playing much for 15-16 years.

Re: Tips for managing intonation using 150+ year old flute

Post by Jeggy »

est wrote:If I were to place an order with Copley or someone like that, should I opt for similar embouchure and finger holes or should I go with the larger sized holes (pratten style?) like the plastic flute I am most used to from the plastic flute? It seems wise to avoid mixing the two when you are learning...but you never know.
There's no right or wrong answer there. Pretty much a question of preference. I find the bigger holed flutes require more air from me, but tend to have a bigger sound and with bigger holes it feels easier to manipulate the holes to slide and accent sometimes. I personally prefer the smaller holed flutes because I feel I have more control over it, even if I sacrifice a little volume. But to each his own.
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Re: Tips for managing intonation using 150+ year old flute

Post by Peter Duggan »

est wrote:If I were to place an order with Copley or someone like that, should I opt for similar embouchure and finger holes or should I go with the larger sized holes (pratten style?) like the plastic flute I am most used to from the plastic flute?
I'd choose elliptical embouchure assuming that's what your French flute has. But you won't get a choice of large/small holes on the same model. Some makers of course offer different models but, since you mention Dave Copley, he essentially has one inspired by Hawkes. The holes are neither particularly small nor huge, and would probably suit most people.
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Re: Tips for managing intonation using 150+ year old flute

Post by tstermitz »

Don't lump all antiques into the "difficult" category. My 1837 R&R has nearly spot on intonation from low C to high G. AFAIK most (all?) American-made antiques, such as the keyed flutes from the Firth, Pond and Hall family, play well at A440 with no problematic flat foot.

Large-holed flutes play louder, but they typically have a flat C#, so you need to compromise there. I prefer medium holed anyway because articulations are easier and snappier. Although, as they say: "Difficult is not the same as impossible".

In any case, you can get a decent (some compromises, like volume or intonation) 8-key Cocus antique well under $2,000; Good (minimal compromises) ones not too much over that. A modern 6-key flute will run you $3,500 or in that range. 8-keys are expensive, long-wait-listed, or unavailable, and good luck finding a modern Cocus flute!
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