M & E or Dixon
- dakotamouse
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An M&E flute can be very good, but it's a bit bulky (heavy, not so tapered on the outside) and the finishing is horrible. I had to sand every hole with my dremel tool to get it to be decent. If you don't want to take that chance, go with the Dixon 3-piece. The Dixon requires a slightly more focused embouchure (with your lips) than a properly finished M&E, but one can get used to that in a short time. So, I think you should go for the Dixon 3-piece. It has a beautiful tone and plays fairly easily.
Jessie
Jessie
- dakotamouse
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- Loren
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Mary,
I haven't played the Dixon 3pc., so I can't comment on that one. I do however have an M&E and I agree with Jessie: It's heavy and rather large. Mine also has very rough tone holes, which I found extremely dissapointing considering the price.
OTH, it is very easy to play - not nearly as nice as my Copley, but certainly easier than my Healy or the cheap Dixon whistle/flute combo.
Jessie,
Do you remember exactly what Dremel bit you used to smooth the inside of the tone holes? I'd like to do the same to my M&E, but don't want to tear it up by using the wrong bit....
Loren
I haven't played the Dixon 3pc., so I can't comment on that one. I do however have an M&E and I agree with Jessie: It's heavy and rather large. Mine also has very rough tone holes, which I found extremely dissapointing considering the price.
OTH, it is very easy to play - not nearly as nice as my Copley, but certainly easier than my Healy or the cheap Dixon whistle/flute combo.
Jessie,
Do you remember exactly what Dremel bit you used to smooth the inside of the tone holes? I'd like to do the same to my M&E, but don't want to tear it up by using the wrong bit....
Loren
I have jewelry sanding bits for my dremel tool. It's very important to use a sanding bit and not a grinding one, or you'll change the size and shape of the holes. And I would recommend fine sanding as opposed to coarse. My bits are less than a quarter of an inch in diamter and come to a point.
Jessie
Jessie
- RudallRose
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I'd not recommend sanding bits at all.
The key to making polymer shine is white rouge. The key to taking the unfinished stuff from the inside of the holes are felt bits. Anything abrasive (even felt if it's on there too long) will change the shape of the hole.
Use a SOFT cone-shaped felt-tipped bit (they're white and come in hard, too, so be careful!), spin it onto some white rouge, then take it to the hole carefully and slowly, not lingering into any spot for too long. Remember, it's plastic, so it will become maleable with high temperature spinning on it.
The key to making polymer shine is white rouge. The key to taking the unfinished stuff from the inside of the holes are felt bits. Anything abrasive (even felt if it's on there too long) will change the shape of the hole.
Use a SOFT cone-shaped felt-tipped bit (they're white and come in hard, too, so be careful!), spin it onto some white rouge, then take it to the hole carefully and slowly, not lingering into any spot for too long. Remember, it's plastic, so it will become maleable with high temperature spinning on it.
- Jens_Hoppe
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My recommendation? Before you commit to anything, check out the archives on the woodenflute mailing list at
http://archive.woodenflute.com/woodenflute-archives
No fancy search facilities I'm afraid so you will have to be a little patient. On the other hand there is much to be gained from the expertise on that list. Last year, when I was considering a synthetic flute I read through lots of discussions on the merits of the various flutes (and ended up buying a Seery).
Cheers,
Jens
http://archive.woodenflute.com/woodenflute-archives
No fancy search facilities I'm afraid so you will have to be a little patient. On the other hand there is much to be gained from the expertise on that list. Last year, when I was considering a synthetic flute I read through lots of discussions on the merits of the various flutes (and ended up buying a Seery).
Cheers,
Jens
While Tom Doorley of Danu plays magic on a Seery flute, I have found every one I've played to be cloudy in tone and EXTREMELY heavy to pick up.
David...do you have any experience with jewelry making or jewelry sanding? I referred to fine sanding bits. They are actually polishing bits...it's true - you can polish a surface without adding a foreign substance.
Jessie
David...do you have any experience with jewelry making or jewelry sanding? I referred to fine sanding bits. They are actually polishing bits...it's true - you can polish a surface without adding a foreign substance.
Jessie
- dakotamouse
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- Loren
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Make a new plan, Stan
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Just get yourself free
Hop on the bus, Gus
You don't need to discuss much
Just drop off the key, Lee
And get yourself free - Location: Loren has left the building.
- toddyboy50
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- RudallRose
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Jessie:
Yes, plenty with jewelry-gauge bits/wheels as many of the rings/keys are sterling after all!
I still prefer the felt and rouge for the delrin work. Again, the key is to remove what's there and work the surface gently....and the rouge-impregnated wheeels, etc all have silicone as the abrasive. Again, it's plastic and I'm not at all comfortable putting any abrasive to it unless my intent is to manipulate the hole size and shape. it can be done, but I wascertainly directing it to an untrained hand. If it's a trained hand, then go for it, but I still believe you'd prefer the result from the felt and rouge. Takes a tad longer, but there's certainly much more room for any error, I think
Yes, plenty with jewelry-gauge bits/wheels as many of the rings/keys are sterling after all!
I still prefer the felt and rouge for the delrin work. Again, the key is to remove what's there and work the surface gently....and the rouge-impregnated wheeels, etc all have silicone as the abrasive. Again, it's plastic and I'm not at all comfortable putting any abrasive to it unless my intent is to manipulate the hole size and shape. it can be done, but I wascertainly directing it to an untrained hand. If it's a trained hand, then go for it, but I still believe you'd prefer the result from the felt and rouge. Takes a tad longer, but there's certainly much more room for any error, I think