Chiff and Fipple Forums

Thanks and more thanks.

Another question, if I may. I've learned a lot from this thread, and especially
Jem's super videos. I've got the footjoint positioned as Jem recommended
and I'm getting used to the new Eb key position. Progress.

But I can't reliably get the low C to sound. The Eb works, and the Csharp, while
not exactly reliable, is nearly so. But, while the C sometimes sounds, it mostly doesn't.
I've put drops of three-in-one oil around the pewter plug, and later smeared cork grease
as best I could in the area, to create a better seal. I don't think the other fingers are leaking, and I don't think I'm reaching much for the C key, since I've got the key rolled in so my pinky comes
down on it.

The flute is very well made and I'm convinced there is a way to do this. Perhaps it's
a matter of time. Any advice/suggestions/info is most welcome. My thanks to all.

It may be a question of adjustment of the keys, Jim. You need to observe their action and interaction very carefully. If they're not just right, there can easily be a leak preventing sounding, and they're potentially quite easily disrupted. I just recently worked on an otherwise very fine modern 8-keyer with padded low C#/C in a grasshopper key configuration. The basic manufacture was good, but the silver is on the soft side - not as hard as that on antiques of my acquaintance - and all too easily bent out of regulation, even just by pressing too hard on the touches. Just as easily reset, too, if one knows what one is doing, but not going to stay reliably well regulated, alas.

Also make sure that you aren't catching the Eb touch or leaking the R3 D finger on the E hole.

Right, I will make sure of that. I suppose the solution is to send the
flute to someone capable of adjusting the keys. Don't think I know
what to do myself. I'll look at it. The flute, by the way, is the Rudall (the extraordinarily generous
and kind) Flutefry was selling. I'm playing it with the Olwell cocus
headjoint. Slice of heaven.

The flute is 2883, and I wonder if anybody can tell me what it means
as to the time of flute's being made, roughly. I know some of you have
forgotten more about Rudalls than I'll ever know.

Thanks again!

R&R #2883 would, by my reckoning, have probably been made in 1834-5, give or take.

As for assessing the foot key action, no expertise needed, just common sense and sharp eyes. Not playing it, holding the footjoint under your close gaze, gently press the C#/C touches by the C touch and observe the closure of the pewter plugs. Then shut just the C# one by its touch, verify it closes fully and roll or slide your finger onto the C touch (without much pressure) and check that/that they both close properly. Then let go of the touches and close the pewters directly by your fingers, observing the touches. See if they are in contact when you hold down both pewters. Then just hold the C pewter shut and see if the C# one stays fully closed. If there are any discrepancies, pewters not shutting fully or touches not completely in sync, something is out of kilter. Remember also to check you don't catch the Eb touch when in playing posture.

On my 1850 flute Firth & Pond, I did not find the C & C# easy to play at first, although they are now coming along. For that matter, the D note was slightly harder to seal when compared with other flutes, perhaps due to the hole's size or its location being a little lower down; not sure why.

(1) Breath control is harder the lower you go.

(2) If the right ring finger moves ever so slightly, you lose the C notes. Sealing the D hole takes some practice. I notice in Jem's video that his right ring finger moves a little when he reaches for the C, despite which he successfully plays the C notes.

(3) Maybe the Eb key doesn't seal properly - pad or spring issue. Try a rubber band on that key to verify.

tstermitz wrote: (2) If the right ring finger moves ever so slightly, you lose the C notes. Sealing the D hole takes some practice. I notice in Jem's video that his right ring finger moves a little when he reaches for the C, despite which he successfully plays the C notes.

That's the *E* hole, closed by R3 to give D. Tone-holes are named for the note they give voice to when they are open, defining the tube length/pitch. One cannot avoid the ring finger moving somewhat as you operate the foot keys, as you observe in my videos, but it is possible to keep the E hole sealed nonetheless. You just have to work out how for yourself with your hand on your particular flute.