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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 4:12 pm 
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A flutemakng retreat! Sounds fascinating. Open to anyone, or only experienced people?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:15 pm
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waltsweet wrote:
If a person wants to make flutes, and wants to test several rates of taper for the reamer, but has no reamer, I have an alternative. Instead of making a reamer, make a smooth, tapered mandrel. Can be easily made in aluminum. To use, get a decent piece of wood; Mexican Rosewood is much cheaper than blackwood. Drill thru with clearance (step-drilling is even better; see below). Allow about a millimeter of clearance all around (check now, not after waxing). Buy the large tubes of 5-minute epoxy at Harbor Freight. Apply a thin coat of beeswax to the mandrel, and use it as a core: daub the mix into the big opening, and displace the resin all the way up. Cure overnight at least. If you have a drying box with light bulbs, it will help release the core (use a hammer or a press). Proceed making this into a flute. If the taper is wrong, make another mandrel and repeat. A hard, wooden bore is better than the epoxy, but only marginally. The main principles of tuning and acoustic will reliably be proved-out by using the epoxy method. Once you're happy with the design, you can commit to a reamer. To make the flute that's an excellent flute, there will be plenty of work regarding the physical scale (tonehole lattice), shape of the toneholes, length of head, cork placement and treatment of the blowhole.


This is brilliant! I've made lots of reamers and I've done cast-bore flutes, but I have not actually considered this method as a way to test a reamer profile before making the reamer! Soooo much easier to make an aluminum taper. Great tip.

_________________
Geoffrey Ellis Flutes


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2020 5:20 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 4:01 pm
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Location: Enfield, CT
The retreat would be open to all. Of course, I wouldn't have time to teach the very basics of using tools.
I'm afraid Mr. Covid has a lot to say about this right now.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2020 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 7:19 pm
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Location: Hood River, Oregon, USA
On the subject of step-drilling to save wear on your finish reamers, an alternate or complementary approach
is to use a "roughing reamer". I bought a couple of Chinese reamers on eBay that are perfect for this.

One is a bassoon reamer and the other is an oboe reamer (the large one). They are straight taper reamers with
dimensions that are very close for a range of Irish flutes. You can ream an under-sized, straight taper, using these,
being sure to insert only as far as necessary, and then finish the final profile using your own reamers.

The great thing about these is that they are made of High Speed Steel (HHS), which is extremely hard wearing,
and are multi-bladed, so they can remove a lot of material before dulling. They are very inexpensive compared to
making your own reamers out of HSS. Between the two I have, the dimensions are such that I can rough out sections
for a whole range of flutes in keys between F and low Bb, simply by marking the appropriate insertion length.

They are still being sold on eBay. This is the bassoon reamer is here:

[url]
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-blade-straigh ... 4459559875
[/url]
And the relevant oboe reamer is here:

[url]
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Straight-flute- ... 4454018847
[\url]

Both have dimensions as stated and are well made. I've used both and they work very well.


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