On Cooking
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:56 pm
I've just read a book about cooking called Salt Fat Acid Heat that I read a review of in the NYT a few months back, and got into the queue for at the library. My turn finally came up, so I've tackled it. The core of the book is the author's observation that the heart of cooking, world wide, is learning command of the four eponymous elements. The book starts with four long chapters discussing the above in both general and specific terms, explaining why any specific instruction on these in any particular recipe does what it does, how that affects the outcome, and how to vary technique or substitute ingredients with confidence and results you can predict. IMO, way too few cookbooks do this. In fact, I find the general recipe book tendency - do this exactly, with exactly these ingredients, and I'm not going to tell you why - infuriating. So this approach is welcome.
The back half of the book consists of recipes and variants, as well as a few that are designed as object lessons to teach specific techniques or principals, as well as longer digressions that were to me more interesting than the recipes. I read the first half with more interest than the latter. A lot of the recipes are foods I don't eat or can't afford. If I owned a copy of the book, I'd prolly work through some at leisure, but I'll have to return this copy soon enough, so I'm just going to have take what profit I can from the more general info. Anyway, you might like it.
She also has some nifty 'colourwheel' charts of world cuisines that show you which salt, fat, acid and heat elements predominate in which cuisines, so that using her system, you can make fake international food. Or go to a restaurant and understand what you're tasting. I thought these were valuable, but it was reference material - too much to take in on a single read.
The back half of the book consists of recipes and variants, as well as a few that are designed as object lessons to teach specific techniques or principals, as well as longer digressions that were to me more interesting than the recipes. I read the first half with more interest than the latter. A lot of the recipes are foods I don't eat or can't afford. If I owned a copy of the book, I'd prolly work through some at leisure, but I'll have to return this copy soon enough, so I'm just going to have take what profit I can from the more general info. Anyway, you might like it.
She also has some nifty 'colourwheel' charts of world cuisines that show you which salt, fat, acid and heat elements predominate in which cuisines, so that using her system, you can make fake international food. Or go to a restaurant and understand what you're tasting. I thought these were valuable, but it was reference material - too much to take in on a single read.