E = Fb wrote:It's the whistle itself, primarily. The player's skill is less than 10% of the problem. Tweaking can reduce this. A tweaked Feadog will do well. In fact, tweaking the Oak will improve it. If you want out-of-the-box sweetness you'll have to go with a more expensive model such as Milligan, etc.
Did someone leave their irony lock turned on?
irony lock!!
were do ya get one of those?
there's always somethin' ya realize that ya don't have...
Picture a bright blue ball just spinning, spinning free
It's dizzying, the possibilities. Ashes, Ashes all fall down.
Thomas-Hastay wrote:Try this simple tweak: use a piece of tape to cover 1/3rd to 1/2 of the bore end hole. This will provide more backpressure and allow second octave access with lower breath pressure. It will reduce shrillness because of lower windway velocity. Covering the bottom 2 or 3 toneholes when playing the Upper notes in the second octave can help as well.
AMAZING! I was thinking I was doing something wrong and was trying to modifying breathing, blowing less hard for the second octave... now I understand why some whistle makers do the conical style... Thanks much!
Wishing for Whistles seems to be my new hobby... so if wishes were whistles, then beggars would play!
Some whistles may be more foregiving than others, but it is the whistler more than it is the whistle. Patience and practice will alleviate the issues you are having. I've only been playing the whistle for 2 years, but my playing has improved and so will your playing.
Everytime I read a thread like this I go back to one of my first whistles, the Feadog Pro D, and I am amazed at how much better I can play it. I was ready to run it over with my automobile I was that frustrated with the screeching and squacking. I then went to a Dixon Trad, which played more foregiving but I still had issues with good tone. I then purchased a Freeman Mello Dog D/C set, but still had issues with tone and some squacking in the upper register. I went back to the Dixon Trad and played it almost exclusively for several months. My playing improved, so I tried the other whistles and, low and behold, they all seemed to play much better, even the Feadog Pro.
Practice will correct the problems you are having. But I would also add that playing one whistle over an extended period of time will help you improve, too. I latched onto that advise about a year ago from a Forum member whose name escapes me, and it helped me immensely. It is not as easy as it sounds. Even though I only have six whistles (5 D's and one C), none of which costing more than $55 USD, I find myself switching from one the another in the course of a day. I think you can do this with greater satisfaction after you have developed a level of competency with one whistle.
E = Fb wrote:It's the whistle itself, primarily. The player's skill is less than 10% of the problem. Tweaking can reduce this. A tweaked Feadog will do well. In fact, tweaking the Oak will improve it. If you want out-of-the-box sweetness you'll have to go with a more expensive model such as Milligan, etc.
Did someone leave their irony lock turned on?
Wow, thanks for bailing me out Hoopy Mike. I completely fell for this and was about to suggest a reality check. Then I saw your response and laughed at myself. I owe you my friend. You saved me from certain embarrassment.
Of course it wouldn't have been the first time.
And to the OP. Learn to breathe grasshopper. It's your primary problem. You can always get another whistle but it won't fix this.
ecohawk
"Never get one of those cheap tin whistles. It leads to much harder drugs like pipes and flutes." - anon
Try a Clarke sweetone or meg, but also tweak your oak. I got a feadog that was unplayable out of the box, particularly in the second octave, but after tweaking it it's my favorite. It's simple, just the putty trick will do. But breath controll makes a big difference too. Also, playing enough at one go- maybe 15 min or so- to get your whistle (and yourself) warmed up really helps.
