Abell whistles better with age/playing?
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- Tell us something.: I've been playing whistle for a very long time, but never seem to get any better than I was about 10 years ago. I'm okay with that. :)
- Location: Bloomington, Indiana
I'm expecting an Abell around August/September and a couple of people have mentioned that it takes about 6 months or so of playing for an Abell whistle to really start sounding nice. If this is the case, what characteristics should I look for when I first get the whistle to determine if I've got a "good one" (since you only have a couple of weeks to send it back if you don't like it...)? I know this isn't an easily answered question, but any comments would be appreciated! Thanks. -Brett
Interesting question! There's one thing I noticed that could possibly make a difference. In a "good one," the bottom wall of the plug comes to the same spot as the top of the window (if the whistle were standing with its holes on the bottom and fipple on top). On a slightly less than "good one," the plug is recessed a little.
Jessie
Jessie
- TonyHiggins
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My Abell sounded just great the day I got it, so I'm wondering how it will be 6 months from when I received it, which was 3 or 4 months ago. I don't think it's changed so far. I'd like to think my playing has been improving in the mean time.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: TonyHiggins on 2001-07-06 13:12 ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: TonyHiggins on 2001-07-06 13:12 ]</font>
- TonyHiggins
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Here we go trying to express the unexpressible.
Abells are made like concert blackwood flutes--that level of craftsmanship and
fine materials. So what you get is sort
of like a classical instrument. Part
of what that means is that the whistle
doesn't 'come at you' tonally. It's
balanced, perfectly in tune, no shrill notes, almost a bit subdued--at first
it can even be a little dissapointing.
But underlying this is considerable tonal
power, but it's sort of an inner power,
it's restrained. Rather like
the best concert piano transformed into
a whistle. So the whistle may
take a little getting used to before
you hear it. In two weeks if you like it,
keep it. I've played three new blackwood
Abell Ds and liked them all.
Abells are made like concert blackwood flutes--that level of craftsmanship and
fine materials. So what you get is sort
of like a classical instrument. Part
of what that means is that the whistle
doesn't 'come at you' tonally. It's
balanced, perfectly in tune, no shrill notes, almost a bit subdued--at first
it can even be a little dissapointing.
But underlying this is considerable tonal
power, but it's sort of an inner power,
it's restrained. Rather like
the best concert piano transformed into
a whistle. So the whistle may
take a little getting used to before
you hear it. In two weeks if you like it,
keep it. I've played three new blackwood
Abell Ds and liked them all.
The case--I have one. It's nicely
designed with a black nylon shell
and a red plush interior. There
are three pockets inside--one fits the
whistle head, another the D tube and
a third a C tube. As I recall it's
thirty bucks and it works fine. A zipper
secures the top.
One needs a case of some sort, of course. Can't leave these whistles lying about.
I virtually never take Abells anywhere,
but when I do I put them in the case
and the case (which is smallish) in something else well protected.
designed with a black nylon shell
and a red plush interior. There
are three pockets inside--one fits the
whistle head, another the D tube and
a third a C tube. As I recall it's
thirty bucks and it works fine. A zipper
secures the top.
One needs a case of some sort, of course. Can't leave these whistles lying about.
I virtually never take Abells anywhere,
but when I do I put them in the case
and the case (which is smallish) in something else well protected.
- brewerpaul
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With regard to wooden whistles in general-- I don't know what instructions the Abell people supply with their whistles, but it is probably a good idea to GRADUALLY break in your whistle. The exotic hardwoods used for these, Thin Weasels, etc are dried for long periods of time before being made into whistles, which causes a bit of shrinkage in the wood. Playing them moisturizes them, causing some swelling. If this takes place too rapidly, cracks could develop, especially since these whistles have such thin walls. As difficult as it is, I would suggest playing a new wooden whistle for only a short period of time each day ( 15 min?), then gradually increasing the time. Dry the whistle afterwards--twisting a cloth handkerchief into the bore works well, and don't seal it into it's case until it's thoroughly dry. An occasional oiling with woodwind bore oil ( applied before playing, when the wood is completely dry) is a good idea too. Keep the oil away from the blade area. If for some odd reason you don't play the whistle for a period of several months, repeat the break-in procedure.
This is a pain, but it sure beats a cracked whistle!! Play your other WHOA aquisitions during the break-in....
This is a pain, but it sure beats a cracked whistle!! Play your other WHOA aquisitions during the break-in....
- Mick Woodruff
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Jessie, the same goes for the Rose whistle. Fred told me that there was no need to have a breaking in period. He said to mop out the whistle after playing, but he advised <I>against</I> oiling the bore. He said that oiling can actually <I>remove</I> the oils he has already used during manufacture.<P>Mick.
- Mick Woodruff
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Dave,<P>Fred Rose doesn't have a web site as yet, but you can contact him at, fredrose.whistles@virgin.net . <P>You can hear several recordings made using a Rose at the <A HREF="http://www.mchaffiewhistles.com/clipsnip/">Clips & Snips</A> web site, and also a couple at <A HREF="http://fingertrip.net/whistle/">my own web site</A>.<P>Here's a picture:<P> <P>Regards,
Mick.
Mick.
- Mick Woodruff
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