RoberTunes wrote:
Others in Chiff and Fipple can instruct you on fine adjustments to hole size and location relative to what that will affect. It would probably help if you mentioned exactly what model you're using, to draw on the experience of people.
If a G whistle plays a tone away, or just one semi-tone off what should happen with the proper fingering going on, that's not a problem with the holes, it's too severe. I've only seen the comments about adjusting hole dimensions be relative to minor fine-tuning of sharp or flat notes, or maybe loud/quiet notes, or in some cases adjusting the tonal qualities or playability of the whistle (like finger sliding off a tone hole to glide from one note to another), but never going so far as a semitone via whistle surgery
1) check the position of the mouthpiece, and if it's adjustable, try to find the best location that produces the least tuning problems across both octaves.
2) watch for comments to your question by the talented tweekers, hobby shop whistle shapers and maybe a genuine whistle maker will chime in too
3) if the whistle mouthpiece can't adjust, or you are finding some frustrations with dealing with the whistle, please post the specific details so others can pick it up from there
4) did you buy the whistle from an established music store, or direct from the maker?
I guess I should have changed the subject more to a question of when building or repairing a flute or whistle that had defects whether purchased or DIY the theoretical things one would do to get it into proper tuning as long as the initial length of the tube with no holes matches the key one desires. Sorry if I mislead you. I will see if I can change the title on the post. I wish they had a section on this site dedicated to whistle building advice etc only.