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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 9:29 am 
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Nanohedron wrote:
oleorezinator wrote:
Mr.Gumby wrote:
I thought those were for making flat chanters.

Multiple uses. Very versatile.

Right you are. It's a banjo tuner, too. :twisted:


I've seen those advertised as a banjo mute.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 9:43 am 
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Steve Bliven wrote:
Maybe Paul Busman could add a thought or two also...

Or Tommy, Whistles of Wood.

Best wishes,

Steve

Glad to oblige. If you want a friction polish to be applied while the piece is spinning on the lathe, this is the one I use:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/14 ... ystal-Coat

It's easy to apply and is pretty durable. For very hard, smooth textured wood I don't use any undercoat. For wood that has a high oil content,if very fibrous or has a very opengrain, I use a wood sealer first, like this:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/42 ... ing-Sealer

This dries very fast. I usually use several/many coats, letting them dry in between, and lightly sanding with 400grit. Then the Crystal-Coat.

Just before shipping, I apply a coat of Minwax paste finishing wax.

Some woodturners in our local club use Cyanoacrylate glue as a finish. You can get a terrific shine and it's tough as heck, but all those fumes make me leery.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 2:45 pm 
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I use 100% tung oil. It’s food-safe and as well as penetrating the wood, it hardens on the outside, giving a nice shine.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:17 pm 
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I don't like speaking for others, especially those with experience in lathe-turned instruments, of which I have none. However, I bought a whistle from Paul Busman and he told me, in person, that he uses almond oil. His fipple plugs, however, are made from delrin and as such do not require oil finish. I remember asking him, because he made the whistle out of some walnut stock that I gave him. He was very accommodating and informed me (before he started work) that walnut is not ideal due to its porous nature, and so required multiple applications of oil. This is a tricky business with a thin-walled instrument like a whistle (even a wooden one).


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:23 pm 
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brewerpaul wrote:
Some woodturners in our local club use Cyanoacrylate glue as a finish. You can get a terrific shine and it's tough as heck, but all those fumes make me leery.

And cyanoacrylate bonds nearly anything to nearly anything else (including skin) very quickly. If you're going to use that stuff, have a debonder handy. Acetone works great for that purpose.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 6:52 pm 
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O'Brien wrote:
I use 100% tung oil. It’s food-safe and as well as penetrating the wood, it hardens on the outside, giving a nice shine.
Nice stuff to work with. My experience is that it takes several thin coats, buffing after each, to get that nice shine. Let one too-thick coat dry, and you get a matte finish and have to start the coat counter over again.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:42 am 
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nicx66 wrote:
those with experience in lathe-turned instruments,
This is a tricky business with a thin-walled instrument like a whistle (even a wooden one).


I don't think it is tricky to turn thin walled wood instruments. The first thing to learn is how make a sharp edge on the cutting tools. If they are are sharp enough and the lathe runs at the right speed and feed, then the wood will be cut right off into pretty little curls. When the tool starts to go dull it will grab the wood and ''POW'' there is a bunch of splinters that were almost a tube.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:26 am 
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brewerpaul wrote:

Some woodturners in our local club use Cyanoacrylate glue as a finish. You can get a terrific shine and it's tough as heck, but all those fumes make me leery.


Yeah, can be very bad for your lungs, I know from (unfortunate) experience. Wear a proper mask that is rated for that material, if you value your future health.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 12:23 pm 
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Thanks everyone for the input, I haven't been on in a few day, so i'm sorry about not replying before now. That gives me some good stuff to look at.: )


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 7:58 am 
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https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Micr ... B001DSZWEM

I use this stuff on most woods.

I'll apply 2 to 4 coats depending on the wood and then polish it on a buffing wheel.


Tommy

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 10:35 am 
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nicx66 wrote:
I don't like speaking for others, especially those with experience in lathe-turned instruments, of which I have none. However, I bought a whistle from Paul Busman and he told me, in person, that he uses almond oil. His fipple plugs, however, are made from delrin and as such do not require oil finish. I remember asking him, because he made the whistle out of some walnut stock that I gave him. He was very accommodating and informed me (before he started work) that walnut is not ideal due to its porous nature, and so required multiple applications of oil. This is a tricky business with a thin-walled instrument like a whistle (even a wooden one).

Just to clarify, I use the sweet almond oil to oil the inside of the whistle. I used wood sealer and that friction polish for the outside. Some people like to oil the outside of finished
wooden whistles with almond oil for maintenance, but it's really not needed.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 11:10 am 
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That was going to be my next question. I would think sealing the inside would be more important than how the outside looks. As a pen turner, CA works great to give things a hard, plastic-like finish. I prefer the natural wood look, so for me I'd use a friction polish on the outside.

So, what about the inside?

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